Categories
Kenya

Staying Positive in a Negative Situation on Tour

It all began June 9 as we headed to the Maasai boma village in southeast Kenya in the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro and Ambroseli National Park which has a swamp in it. I knew that baby elephants were often rescued there and didn’t know why. But I soon learned they were stuck in the swamp and couldn’t get out and their Mother couldn’t get them out either.

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Shopping with the Maasai and all their beautiful beads and items for sale. And yes, I always buy something from them.

The ride took 1 hour from the hotel and the entire area had 8-inch ancient volcanic rocks scattered all over the area from the eruption of Mt. Kilimanjaro many years ago. We finally arrived at the boma where 122 Maasai lived in their individual houses made of cow manure.

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The elder who spoke to us about their lives. It was very interesting to learn how another culture lives and makes it in this world even though they do it different than I do. And we both make it work for us.

Sitting under a shade tree and listening to the elder Maasai tell how and why they do things, each one of us asked a question at the end of the hour meeting. Then, we were invited to tour the boma to see where and how they live.

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These two beautiful Maasai ladies live in the boma village we visited.

But first, I had to visit the toilet which my Tauck World Discovery guide said was 1 block away.

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Sharon Davis danced with the Maasai ladies.

So Sharon Davis, my travel companion, and I headed to the toilet, also made of dried cow manure. We arrived at what we thought was the entrance but it was the back. Sharon said to me, “Stay here while I find the entrance.”

And when she returned to tell me where it was, she saw me fall from standing to flat on the ground and I didn’t hit one of those volcanic rocks that were also scattered around the out house. I had turned 90 degrees to my right to look and the next thing I knew I was one foot from the ground.

I landed on my right shoulder and right hip and my head hit the ground and bounced up like a ball. The ground was covered with 4 inches of dried cow manure which was all over the right side of my face, hair, leg and Nikon camera. But I still needed to go to the toilet.

The biggest surprise I had besides falling was the toilet had no odor. Having been to many toilets in this world that smelled horribly, it was wonderful to find one that did not smell and it was made of cow manure. I wondered how the Maasai could keep the toilet so clean and odor free and many peoples of the world could not.

When I got up, my right shoulder hurt so we went to our guide and told him what happened, and proceeded to tour the boma and all the souvenirs they had for sale.

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The cow manure house we visited inside where this Massai and his child lived.

Then we enjoyed a tour of a home containing only a cooking pot, fire, little stool and bed made of sticks. This home had an 8×10 inch glass window which I had never seen in a Maasai house that are always made by the women of cow manure.

When we arrived back to the hotel, a nurse checked my painful shoulder and asked me to lift up my right arm to the sky and I did. She said “Take these pills and use this ointment for 4 days and your shoulder will be well.” So I did and added an ice pack to it every hour.

Neither Sharon nor I wanted to return home as there was nothing wrong with me, according to the nurse. So we continued on the tour. Plus, the Tauck tour of Tanzania and Kenya was awesome. How could we leave those precious wild animals and the wonderful people, we said.

The next morning I looked down at my chest and the entire right side was black and the entire left side was white. I thought my right shoulder had something break and now I knew it was a blood vessel. But it did not hurt and the black stain lasted for several weeks before my chest became white again.

Two days later, we were in a small town that had a medical center. There I saw a doctor dressed professionally in his suit and tie, who took an x-ray of my still painful shoulder. He called me in, lifted up the 5×7 X-ray to view my shoulder and said “You don’t have any breaks so you are good to go.”

So again we agreed to continue on the wonderful trip of Kenya and those wild animals living their lives right before us.

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We saw this Momma rhinoceros and her cute baby in the Maasai Mara in Kenya.

A few days later, the tour went to the Maasai Mara and I began having trouble walking on the right side so I used the hotel’s wheelchair while there and it worked well. I didn’t need to walk then and also didn’t use my right shoulder much either.

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Sharon is on this balloon ride over the Maasai Mara. Can you spot her?

I didn’t miss one safari or anything. However, I did decline the hot air balloon ride because I had enjoyed 2 before there. But Sharon went on the hot air balloon and she was ecstatic about it. I could ride and see the awesome animals with no problem and photograph the balloon in the air withSharon riding in it.

Again, we decided to continue on with the awesome tour around Kenya and then to Nairobi, the only city in the world that has a national park in it full of wild animals.

The tour finally ended in Nairobi, one week after my fall. By now, my shoulder was still hurting and I couldn’t walk on my right side. There we went to a hospital which had a CT Scan machine and the professionally dressed doctor said my shoulder was broken in 2 places. Then he put a sling on my arm to wear for weeks until well. But because I am only right handed, I took it off and used the arm very little.

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Again, we agreed to stay on in wonderful Nairobi until it was time to return home.

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The endangered Rothschild Giraffe at the Giraffe Manor Hotel in Nairobi, Kenya.

I had booked a 3-day extension tour of Nairobi to again visit the rescued darling baby elephants in the David Sheldrick Orphanage where several of the babies had been rescued from Ambroseli. Next, was the Kazuri bead making ladies and finally, the endangered Rothschild giraffes that live at the Giraffe Manor. (“Read Eating Breakfast with Giraffes” at in Nairobi elsewhere in my blog)

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THE DANCE wall hanging I purchased in Nairobi. Notice the boy and girl dancing in the upper left.

We visited all places we had planned. And at Kazuri Beads, I purchased a priceless handmade piece of art made by the bead ladies at www.kazuri.com. I named it the The Dance with beads made every day by 360 women who roll every shape of bead from Kenya’s Mt. Kenya clay into necklaces and wall hangings and sell them worldwide using Fed Ex.

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Some of the 360 bead making ladies who serenated me with song and dance after I purchased their masterpiece wall hanging.

When I bought the wall hanging, the factory ladies stopped work, danced and sang for 15 minutes. They make $175 a month to support themselves and their many children as they had no husband or any help and each would get money from my purchase.

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Marie, the lady who actually put the wall hanging together while her assistant, Florence, helped with macramé and assembling beads.

Two of the ladies worked 6 weeks creating the wall hanging with the many beads then sewing them into a custom African pattern using macramé. (See my story called “The Bead Making Ladies of Nairobi” elsewhere on my blog.)

Our wonderful Tauck tour ended and upon arriving home, I went to a hospital for a CT scan and learned my painful right shoulder clavicle was broken at both ends and my painful pelvis was cracked.

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The red marks on this laughing skeleton show the bones that were broken in my body, all on the right side.

But I continued to hurt and went to Mayo Clinic and learned my pelvic bone was completely broken and so was the sacrum, which meant several of my world wide trips needed to be cancelled while I recuperated for 6 months.

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To focus on something besides my broken bones, I hosted a BBQ luncheon for these wonderful people of my International Travelers Century Club. It was so much fun and we all enjoyed it very much. Of course, all we talked about was travel because each one of us had visited over 100 countries to belong to the club. And several had been to 150 and 200 countries. I had been to 251 countries/territories.

But I needed another dimension to my recuperating “trip.” Since I could not go on a world-wide tour, I created one I could go on to replace the trips I had to cancel.

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And while I was healing, my doctor required I go to physical therapy.  Guiding me was Rachael Thompson of Select Physical Therapy who kept me going until I was in shape to travel again. Plus she gave me positive things to think about while recouping instead of negative thoughts.

Being able to get in a wheelchair and transferring to an electric shopping cart, Hester, my helper and I went shopping at stores with electric shopping carts. Plus, she helped me daily with food, cleaning, driving and all.

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Reverend Bernadine S. Davis was one person I surprised by purchasing all of her items she was carrying in her arms one day. She said I blessed her and I told her you sure have been and I love you because you are human. Bernadette and I both made a scene as we screamed in joy and hugged and thanked each other for the wonderful experience of meeting by chance. It was a win-win for both of us.

While shopping at Walmart, I would select a person in the check-out line and pay for the items in their cart. This opened the door to conversations with these folks and enabled me to hear their stories. It was a wonderful discovery experience that was a win-win for us both, and converted a very negative experience into a positive one for me. And I continue this wonderful “trip” every time I go to Walmart.

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Rachael Thompson made sure I performed each exercise correctly.

I was very grateful for the opportunity and I appreciated their kind responses more than they could know, changing a lemon event into lemonade for me so I can get back to thinking about my next world wide trip.

Photo Copy ©  2017 carolyntravels.com 

 

Categories
India

The Journey to Moksha in Varanasi

As we entered the Harishchandra Ghat in Varanasi, India, we noticed the heat and we were 20-25 feet away. Then, we saw a group of people watching from a step high above the sacred Ganges River.dsc_0124 And all along the river for several Ghats, thousands and thousands people were everywhere. It was then that we learned everything that was happening.india-jan-2008-1-886-2

What were we’re seeing, Ajay Pandey with Bestway Tours and Safaris told us, were Hindu ceremonies at the most sacred place in India that take place 24/7 each and every day. “No other place on Earth, Ajay said, “holds daily cremations at Varanasi like this right by the sacred Ganges River for the devout Hindu.” Over 80 cremations are performed daily on bodies brought by family members from everywhere any way they can to reach the cremation site because this Ghat and the Manikarnika Ghat are the main places where Hindu can reach Moksha. Cremation must occur within 24 hours of death.

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Ladies observing  Chhath Puja.

In addition, on this particular day, several Ghats( concrete steps on the bank down to the Ganges River) were packed with people observing Chhath Puja, a yearly 4-day observation where the faithful Hindu pay obedience to the Sun God. And this event was separate from the daily cremations. It just so happened that the 2 events shared the same area of the Ganges River. Married men and women observing the 36-hour fast prayed for the well being and prosperity of their families.dsc_0248

This age-old observance on the Ghats by the Ganges River was one of the many sites in eastern India where the festival was observed. The puja starts with the ritual of ‘Nahai-Khai’, in which devotees prepare traditional food after bathing. The second day is ‘Kharna’, during which devotees observe a 36-hour-long fast which starts from the second day evening onwards and continues till the fourth day sunrise.The third day, the devotees stand in water and offer ‘Arghya’ to the setting sun God.dsc_0255

On the fourth and final day of puja, devotees and their friends and relatives assembled at the Ghats on the river bank before sunrise and offer ‘Arghya’ to the rising sun God.dsc_0240

These devotees and others all watched the cremations and final day of the Chhath Puja, a once a year happening at Varanasi and all of East India. Several of the 87 Ghats along the Ganges River in Varanasi were full of people, and the river close to the cremation ceremonies was full of boats full of people observing it all.india-jan-2008-1-984

As cremations were on going 24/7, we saw only males watching their loved one being cremated on a pyre. Hindu accepts death as a positive event on the way to Moksha and peace. Hindus believe the soul passes through a cycle of successive lives -samsara- and its next incarnation is always dependent on how the previous life was lived -karma. Hinduism is not only a religion, it is a cultural way of life.

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This Rangoli is an Indian art form on the floor using petals, rice, flour, colored sand, and other materials. It is thought to bring good luck and reflect traditional folklore and practices unique to an area. A Rangoli can be done in flower shapes, deity impressions, or flower or petal shapes.

Before each cremation began, the male survivors took the body wrapped in a gold or white cloth topped with ribbons,  marigolds and other flowers to the sacred river for washing to relieve the body of its sins.india-jan-2008-1-861

Then the body was placed on a wooden pyre and the #1 male survivor, dressed in white, set the wood on fire. Prayers are said to Yarma, the god of death. The body is now an offering to Agni, the god of fire. Cremation takes 3-4 hours. When the skull explodes, it signifies that the soul had been released to heaven. The Dom keeps the fire going during the entire cremation and cows strolled around some of the pyres eating the marigolds and other flowers on the ground.dsc_0123-2

Many of these family members saved money for years to be able to buy the wood for their cremation. The most expensive wood is sandalwood and teak. Mango is the cheapest. The untouchables of society, called Dom, oversee each cremation and charge a fee to do so. They also charge for wood and weigh each log. Many of these Dom make a lot of money from the cremations.dsc_0121

The Dom stacks the wood into a pyre. Then the body is unwrapped and placed on the pyre. To keep it flat during cremation, more wood is placed on top of the body. The attending Dom then gives the #1 male survivor the flame with which he sets the pyre afire. Dry wood ignites immediately with flames leaping into the air and covering the body.dsc_0118

Should a person not have enough money to buy all the needed wood, the body is partially cremated with the amount of wood they can afford. Then the ashes and remaining body parts are put into the Ganges River where the soul is transported to heaven to escape the cycle of rebirth. The holier the place the better the chance the soul will achieve “Moksha” or cycle of rebirth and avoid returning to earth as an animal or insect.

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The red line into a woman’s hair indicates she is married.

Women are not allowed at the cremation because it is believed that their cries will interrupt the cremation and cause the soul to not make it to moksha. The transfer must be pure, and not sad or painful. We were allowed to pass through Harishchandra Ghat by keeping a respectable distance. And photographs are allowed only from a respectable distance.dsc_0288

Because of pollution concern, some cremations are performed in other locations and then the ashes are put into the Ganges River. But most Hindu choose the traditional cremation that has been carried out for thousands of years. After cremation, the ashes are searched for gold, and if any is found, it is given to the poor for purchasing wood.dsc_0206-2

After observing cremations from afar, we reached the Ganges River where a small wooden boat was waiting to take us to observe the “Prayer of the Ganges” to make the Ganges River happy to receive bodies into Moksha. This was at the Dashashwamegh Ghat. My first tour of India with Tauck.com included this Prayer of the Ganges ceremony and I was so impressed I decided to visit again on my private Bestway tour.

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dsc_0241Lasting for 1 hour each night, the Prayers are watched by scores of boats full of observers floating on the Ganges River. And we were one of them. The 9 Hindu priests perform the worship arti of the river Ganges to fire where a dedication is made to the Ganges River, Lord Shiva, the Sun, Fire and the whole universe.india-jan-2008-1-888

Under powerful lights that illuminate the Ghat, rhythmic chants and offerings are made by the nine priests to the river to accept the soul of the deceased on their journey to Moksha. We floated oil lamp candles in the river meaning light, happiness and knowledge. It was a most reverend ceremony.india-jan-2008-1-862

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One of the neon umbrellas under which a guru will celebrate the Prayer of the Ganges, which makes the River happy to receive the body into Moksha.

dsc_0210-2This one particular evening once a year, 2 events occurred at the same time, the daily cremation ceremony and Chhath Puja, the last day of the 36-hour fast that pays obedience to the Sun God. Hundreds of Hindu devotees packed the Ghats with baskets of food and flowers and family and friends to break that fast.dsc_0259

Watching the deceased take the journey to Moksha and the Hindu break the Chhath Puja fast was a total experience like no other in the world. Being able to observe both ceremonies in Varanasi, India, the holiest city in India, at the same time was a total honor.

Photo Copy ©  2016 carolyntravels.com 

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The sacred Ganges River the morning after a night of cremations.
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Every morning the Hindu bath in the sacred Ganges River to wash away their sins.
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A man and his Cobra.
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At the ceremony was a Sadhus (Religious man) or Guru.
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This young man was selling marigolds and candles to put into the river to honor the dead.
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Cattle are everywhere all the time eating anything they can find, such as the flowers left over from the bodies while they were being cremated. All animals are sacred.
Categories
India

Necessity is the Mother of Invention

  It followed us from the ancient temple city of Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks, as part of our multi-vehicle convoy. And it was ready for our every need on the multi-hour rides into Central India which everyone enjoyed and appreciated.

Our custom Luxury Loo followed our convoy everywhere we went.
Our custom Luxury Loo followed our convoy everywhere we went.

It was the Luxury Loo that was invented by Tauck World Discovery because the need arose for their tour members traveling to their tiger safaris.  There are no toilets available along the vast expanse of open land and small villages to the parks.  So Tauck solved the challenge by providing a toilet in their convoy for their tiger adventures to operate smoothly, comfortably and conveniently. Necessity is the Mother of invention and the Luxury Loo was the answer.

The line up to use the Happy Van.
The line up to use the Happy Van.

Every two hours, next to rice fields, pastures or farms in the northern Central India area, the convoy would stop for a Luxury Loo break. Alongside the road in an unknown location, tour members exited their white SUVs headed straight for the “Happy Van.”DSC_0488 Two mini-motor home vans were modified to fit Tauck’s need for complete clean restroom facilities plus a comfortable waiting area from the weather.DSC_0493 And the Luxury Loo would be everywhere the Tauck tour was going because it always joined the convoy full of tour members ready for the next potty break.DSC_0496 Inside the big white van was a 3×3-foot room with toilet, sink, and amenities, just perfect for all Tauck tour members to use.DSC_0478 Plus, two comfortable couches with table were available where tour members could wait for their turn with the single unisex toilet.               DSC_0546 As guests used the Luxury Loo facilities one at a time, refreshments of snacks, fruits and soft drinks were available, making the tour even more consumer-friendly.  DSC_0545Some exercised, practiced Yoga and Tai Chi positions or walked around the convoy of cars to stretch their legs and bodies during each “Shangra Loo” break.DSC_0623 When it was time for lunch, the convoy stopped on the side of the road under a huge tree, set up a buffet table with white table cloth and all the trimmings. Rocks served as seats as all enjoyed the delicious food, scenery and Indian rural people going about their daily duties.DSC_0604 Two vans had to be modified to create 2 Luxury Loos so Tauck would have one available for their Northern India and Nepal tour which includes 7 total tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks. When one tour has a Luxury Loo in use, another tour begins and uses the second Luxury Loo, and this rotation continued throughout Tauck’s Northern India and Nepal tour season.DSC_0739 The Luxury Loo comes complete with attendants who help open the door for the tour members, help them into and out of the van and provide needed supplies from hand sanitizer to towelettes for each one. Then the attendants clean the Luxury Loo and drive it at the end of the Tiger safari convoy, ready for the next Luxury Loo stop along the way to the national parks. DSC_0542 Along the way, the tour members enjoyed the everyday lives for the rural people, seeing how they are making it, ladies collecting water every morning for their home, men working their animals to thrash rice grain from the stalk, a Tuk Tuk stuffed with people for a ride into a village, children happy to see us and smiling and waving, people on the road stopping to speak with us and welcoming us to India, learning that cattle are sacred and have the right-of-way on every road not vehicles,  cattle pulling wagons full of hay, and ladies walking in their beautiful colorful saris carrying different products on their head.   DSC_0861                               DSC_0803DSC_0771DSC_0764DSC_0766DSC_0714DSC_0636DSC_0712DSC_0801DSC_0284 DSC_0816DSC_0592DSC_0544

The rural people in Central India paint their houses blue because dust does not stick to blue paint.
The rural people in Central India paint their houses blue because dust does not stick to blue paint.

All Tauck tour members were back on the road for their third and final convoy ride with the Luxury Loo and were happy and appreciative for Tauck’s relieving invention, and even happier because they saw their first Royal Bengal Tiger in the wild in India. It truly was Incredible India!

A Kanha National Park Photo
A Kanha National Park Photo
Categories
CUBA

Benito and the Cuban Cigar

He entered the barn full of tobacco hanging and drying everywhere and the aroma there smelled like a tobacco shop.

Benito and his Cuban Cigar
Benito and his Cuban Cigar

Dressed in khaki work clothes and a straw cowboy hat, the black mustached rugged looking farmer smelled of a musky macho outdoorsman.

On his knee layed a bouquet of aged tobacco leaves and he offered each one of us a chance to savor the aroma up close. Then, selecting one large leaf from that bouquet, he rolled it up carefully from end to end into a tight cylinder and put it in his mouth.

Now ready to smoke his custom cigar, he cut off one end and lit it, followed by a long slow draw and released a huge puff of smoke up into his tobacco drying-curing barn. This was Benito, the Cuban tobacco farmer of Vinales, Cuba that resembled the Marlboro man.  And his smooth charismatic mannerism of smoking caused the women to swoon approvingly and the men to smile.

Benito, with the toabcco bouquet on his knee, preparing to roll out a famous Cuban Cigar.
Benito, with the tobacco bouquet on his knee, preparing to roll out a famous Cuban Cigar.

With his pocket full of his Cuban cigars, Benito offered us a chance to smoke one.

Benito showed us a trick of putting the burning end of the cigar into his mounth and blowing out the other end, causing a huge stream of smoke.
Benito showed us a trick of putting the burning end of the cigar into his mounth and blowing out the other end, causing a huge stream of smoke.

Man after man stepped up for a cigar and Benito personally snipped off the end and then lit it for them.  The joy of smoking a world-famous Cuban cigar soon revealed many happy smiles and pleasurable signs of approval.

Then it was my turn as the only woman who wanted to puff just once on a world famous Cuban Cigar in Cuba with a “Marlboro Man” Cuban tobacco farmer.

So Benito offered one to me, then cut off the end and held the lighter to it for several seconds without anything happening. “Are you puffing on it?  He asked.”  No, I said. “Well, you have to puff on it to get it going.” So with one slow long draw on that cigar, I got to experience why Cuban cigars are so celebrated and famous around the world.

Benito tells me I have to draw on the cigar to get it going. Photo by June.
Benito tells me I have to draw on the cigar to get it going. Photo by June.
Ah, the taste of a world famous Cuban cigar, another dream come true.
Ah, the taste of a world famous Cuban cigar, another dream come true.

We couldn’t leave his tobacco drying-curing barn until he showed us about a tablespoon of “5, 781 tiny black tobacco seeds” that were each about the size of a dot. From each one, Benito said, grows a single tobacco plant and he showed us his field of perfect green plants as we left the barn.

Benito showing the 5,781 tobacco seeds so we can see how tiny they are.
Benito showing the 5,781 tobacco seeds so we can see how tiny they are.

Explaining the tobacco growing season in Vinales, Cuba, the tobacco growing area of Cuba, we learned why Cuba’s tobacco is so good for cigars. The red fertile soil, the position, angle, and amount of sun and the right amount of rain makes top quality tobacco just like a fine wine. Benito said harvesting occurs around Feb.-March each year as he invited us all into his home for Cuban coffee and Cuban Rum.

Walking around carrying a big bottle of Cuban strong amber rum, he laced our coffee with it and the coffee instantly was much more delicious.

The Best Cuban rum with Cuban coffee, what a treat.
The Best Cuban rum with Cuban coffee, what a treat, as Jean-Roch looks on.

It was amazing that rum could enhance the flavor of coffee to such a degree. And even sipping the concoction fairly fast did not even produce a buzz.

By now, our Tauck World Discovery tour visit was over but before we left, we were invited to tour his old authentic Cuban house and see his photos and tobacco ads of his farm. He showed us his family photos and told us how they have grown tobacco for years.

As we left, we had to pass by that tobacco drying-curing barn one last time

Benito's tobacco drying barn with the tobacco field nearby.
Benito’s tobacco drying-curing barn with the tobacco field nearby.

and the aroma that flowed from it indicated it wasn’t long before selling the dried and cured tobacco to make those famous Cuban cigars for the world to enjoy.

Photo Copy ©  2015 carolyntravels.com 

Benito in his tobacco field.
Benito in his tobacco field.
Benito and his workers cutting the tobacco leaves to hang them in the tobacco barn for drying and curing.
Benito and his workers cutting the tobacco leaves to hang them in the tobacco barn for drying and curing.
Benito, on the right, in a tobacco ad.
Benito, on the right, in a tobacco ad.

Categories
Papua New Guinea

Dragon Dance of Papua New Guinea

A boat full of 25 natives making loud music came to us in the Coral Sea as we approached their village in the Sepic River region of Papua New Guinea.

When we arrived, we walked in the Sea to get to their village.A clan lady dressed in ceremonial regalia, greeted us on shore with a wet, hot pink-fuchsia glob of goo on our cheek, made by the annatto seed for a sign of hospitality.

Moisture caused the seed to “bleed” a hot pink juice all over.

Even though the 400 villagers from 7 clans had been isolated from the rest of the world since the beginning of time, the Watam clans of Papua New Guinea greeted us in full bilas attire,all provided by nature. And they knew we were arriving because they had received a code message beaten on the 8-by 3-foot hollow log (garamut)  from nearby neighbors. Justin, our tour guide with Orion Expedition Cruises, told us the code said, “Justin is coming with his ship early Wednesday morning.” So all the villages started preparing for the Orion’s arrival.

Everything stopped as the school children pledged allegiance to their flag, followed by the big dragon of 10 men worming its way through the middle of the long village while stepping to the beat of their kundu drums.

Dressed as one huge dragon, the men were singing, dancing and swaying to the beat of their drums. Others were dressed in their native costumes.

Next came the alerted natives from all over with their handmade masks and carvings and other souvenirs from the famous Sepik River region. But the Watam Village leaders had to organize a governing system for the different sales people to be fair to all.

Handwritten signs of rules, written in a native language, were placed at the entrance for sellers.

Waiting for us to select our prized souvenirs were many sellers in the hot shade and native villagers were now in business with a visiting ship of 80 people.

But before we left, Robin Tauck, of Tauck World Discovery, presented many huge boxes of school supplies,clothes and backpacks to the children who needed them to travel to their Watam school and schools in other islands.

The children danced with joy wearing their new possessions from this Tauck World Discovery special custom tour of Papua New Guinea. And the 25 men in the boat watched with joy and approval of it all.

tour. Photo Copy ©  2015 carolyntravels.com 

Categories
India

Incredible India

It really is Incredible India as the sign says when you enter customs. 

India is ancient temples;

sacred cattle in the streets;

new temples;

women in saris;

traffic jams everywhere yet every driver inviting others to pull in front of them;

caparisoned (decorated) elephants giving rides on the side of the road;

men wearing turbans, 

bodies wrapped in colorful paper and ribbon being brought on the top of 

vehicles  for their sacred cremation in the Ganges River in Varanasi;

 the magnificent Taj Mahal at 6 a.m. in the morning;

and the curry-spiced Indian food.

It’s the top hotel palaces in the world;

a houseboat ride on canals around Kerala;

 Kathakali dancers and Kalaripayattu ancient martial arts

 demonstration at Kumarakom;

Three huge caparisoned elephants in a Hindu temple ceremony in Kerala,

yoga lessons in spiritual Kerala/Cochin;

and climbing the 225 steps to Elephanta Island near Bombay/Mumbai to see the ancient carving.

 In Bombay/Mumbai, it’s the Dabbawallahs

on their daily deliveries of fresh-cooked food from each customer’s home delivered for lunch

in their Bombay offices in Tiffins without a mistake; 

the largest democracy in the world;

the Dhobi Ghats where residents have their laundry washed in many concrete vats outside

 and pounded and pounded until clean, then dried and delivered to the Bombay/Mumbai home;

where everyone has a job no matter his/her status;

where trains stuffed with people arrive continuously into Bombay/Mumbai;

where new modern buildings are built next door to a slum of tents.

It’s a special Maharajah dinner evening in Jaipur with

caparisoned elephants, camels, horses and people dancing to the beat of the music, and pashminas for warming shoulders.

India is a country that is not to be missed for a life-changing experience and a trip of a lifetime on Tauck World Discovery’s all inclusive tour because it is truly incredible India.

 

Categories
Italy

Red, White & Black Haute Couture in Rome

Red, black and white was in every one of the 33 elegant sophisticated creations. So when I saw them, chills came over my body. They were so beautiful and so refreshing to see in today’s society. All were custom designed by Michele Miglionico, an Haute Couture Italian designer in Rome.

Being in attendance at my first High Fashion Show at the 85th Anniversary of Tauck World Discovery in Rome was a super high for this life-long seamstress. And I was on the front row in a prime seat location at the entrance to the runway so I could see them full view as they entered the room, as they walked the runway, and as they left the room.

The six beautiful models were very tall and very thin and in a very perfect pencil-like shape. Oh, to be thin again. And their hair styles were all the same, in 3-4 big knots or rolls on the top, sides and back of their heads. The hair style was fitting for the occasion and allowed emphasis on the fashions. The shoes were all very high heels.

The first model set the theme for the fashion show, black, white, and red for the colors and sophisticated tailored elegance for the style of garments made of silks, satins, brocades, linens and cottons.  And every kind of sewing technique, from tucks to gathers to pleats was used. The styles ranged from casual, formal to professional attire. And every model after that was a different variation of this theme.

Watching the models sashay while leaning backwards from the waist, swaying smoothly right then left down the runway with each foot landing right in front of the other one reminded me of the walk of a graceful elegant giraffe I had seen on a Tauck World Discovery tour in the Serengeti.

By now, my head was spinning with excitement and I could barely get air because the magnitude of the fabulous fashion show in Rome just overcame me. The elegant style of the clothes reminded me of the style of clothes I used to design and sew.

But, too soon, the show was over, and my dream had come to an end, and I didn’t want to leave. But then, Robin Tauck, of Tauck World Discovery, invited us to accompany her backstage to meet designer Michele Miglionico. I accepted immediately without hesitation and followed her to continue my fashion experience that hadn’t ended yet. Mr. Miglionico shook my hand and hugged me, offering a custom fitting for attending the show. And I could browse through the racks of clothes he had just shown us to find exactly the one I might want.

Then Robin Tauck offered to take our photo and she put a huge purse in my hand that was used in the style show to complete the “balance” of the photo. Of course, we were standing right in front of a rack of the gorgeous fashions in the show.

My private custom fashion show ended again and this time I had to leave. But as I left, I dreamed of days gone by when I also wore my beautiful custom-made and designed ensembles and was thin and pretty and could have been one of those on the runway.

Categories
Russia

The Lock Tree of Love

After leaving the Tretyakov Gallery of Russian Art in Moscow, we had to walk on Luzhov Bridge over a canal that connects to the Volga River to our Tauck World Discovery coach parked on the other side. We had just finished seeing the world class Russian art works in the Gallery, so we had no idea that we were going to see another creative Russian art exhibit. That surprise was waiting for us on that bridge.

On that pedestrian bridge were three 9×5-foot trees made of iron and full of locks. These were no ordinary locks because they were placed on these trees by newlyweds on their wedding day and perhaps lovers showing their forever faith in their relationship. The locks were all shapes, sizes and colors on the many triangular-shaped branches.  And each lock had an inscription on it of the couple’s names and a comment of their love for each other. The inscriptions were written in every kind of permanent medium from paint to fingernail polish to engraving. The couple on their wedding day would go to a tree and place their lock on the tree and lock it and throw the key in the canal.

Without the key, the lock could not be removed by either one of the couple. Therefore, they agreed, the marriage could only be ended if the key could be found in that canal.  And, if the key was found, the lock could then be unlocked and removed and the marriage could then be terminated. And if the key could not be found, the marriage shall be forever.

But, the three trees were loaded with so many locks that there was no room for any more.  Luckily, two more lock trees were on one side of the canal but they also were loaded with locks of all shapes sizes and colors. So to help alleviate the overload problem, the unknown “tree keepers” periodically added more trees and removed locks so that more can be added. Now the permanent romance promise can continue and married couples and those in a relationship can continue to show their forever love for each other.

Categories
United States of America

Swirls, Light and Slot Canyon

In an old beat-up dented 15 year-old red Ford F150 pickup, Christina and I and 10 others crammed in the front and back of a Navajo style 4WD ride. The driver-guide was Vera “pure Navajo through and through from head to toe in every sense of the word” the Navajo said. She rocked and rolled and rattled and spun us for 2 miles all the way down hot and sandy Antelope Canyon to the entrance of the Upper Antelope Canyon or Slot Canyon, all a part of the Navajo Nation land near Page, Arizona and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, USA.

We had to have a Navajo guide with us at all times because Upper Antelope Canyon is an active flood area at any time when rain occurs even miles away from the canyon. And the Navajo have the experience and the communication system to know when flood waters will hit Antelope Canyon and especially Slot Canyon. When the raging force of flash flood water enters Slot Canyon, it can fill this canyon up to 60 feet high with such great force that people have died. Knowing the weather was agreeable, we entered Upper Antelope Slot Canyon, the most visited slot canyon in the Southwest because all conditions here are ideal.

And what an entrance it was. It was at least 20 degrees cooler inside and the walls were 60 feet tall and the slot at the top ranged from 3-12 feet wide.  They were carved, scared and twisted in such beautiful formations it was just shocking that this was a natural creation. The red-orange sandstone walls had been shaped for thousands of years by winds and powerful floods through the skinny canyon. And the twisted and swirled red-orange sandstone walls the length of a football field were the result.

Another highlight of the visit came from the sun. The prime time to visit Slot Canyon is 10 am to noon because of the angle of the sun into the canyon. All of a sudden, through one area of the canyon’s slot ceiling, the sun shone a foot-wide beam of white light down to the sandy floor. It was such a mystical magical event and created a feeling of heavenly euphoria. We didn’t want to leave.

But, too soon, the magical walk through the canyon ended and it was time to get back into the old dented F150 Ford Pickup and rock and roll back to the main Navajo tourist office and our Tauck World Discovery tour coach, thus ending a one-of-a-kind walk through Navajo candy-looking corkscrew canyon land.

Categories
Europe Romania

Fancy Houses, Plain Clothes in Romania

The Transylvanian (Romania) road from Dracula’s Castle split into a triangle junction that contained a small park.  A quaint pair of horse-drawn two-story wagons rested there. Their horses grazed lazily on the emerald green grass under the shade trees while several people lounged in the upper story of their wagons. “Roma, or what we call Gypsies,” our Romanian guide explained, are “nomadic people who traditionally live in two-story wagons. The upper story is their home while the lower story is for business.” So, we were very surprised to see what the guide had just described to us that morning had suddenly appeared.

The Roma, as they prefer to be called, emigrated in the 1300’s from India. While many remain nomadic, more and more are living in homes provided by the tolerant Romanian government. We passed a government-built neighborhood that looked like a giant hand had stamped-out hundreds of small houses set close together and enclosed by fences to keep Gypsy life separate from the rest of the Romanians. These neighborhoods fit the traditional “satra” lifestyle of the Gypsies – “living close together without privacy.” But, traditional to the Roma way, each family individualizes them to stand out in the crowd.

The few wealthy Roma own huge “mansion homes” complete with metal or clay castle-like turreted roofs. These edifices serve not only as homes but also to flaunt the wealth of the owner. The Roma live in only one or two ornate, flamboyant, and colorfully furnished rooms, leaving the remainder of rooms empty. From the outside, no one knows that most of the house is empty.

An estimated two million Roma comprise 10% of the Romanian population, although the actual Roma population is unknown, as they don’t declare their children. Children are used from a young age as beggars and pickpockets. Parents use no birth control, and the saying about them is, “if a child needs a bath, make a new one instead.” As our Tauck World Discovery Danube Riverboat tour went on a daily land excursion, we passed numerous children bathing in a drainage ditch, so we were not surprised that families of 10 – 12 children are common and that some children eventually bathe.

Roma children attend Romanian schools, which includes a free breakfast to improve attendance.  Many still do not attend school, perpetuating their high rates of illiteracy and poverty.  Large portions of the children in Romanian orphanages come from Roma families who can’t afford to keep them.

Roma children marry at age 13 or 14.  Girls must be virgins for these arranged marriages. The girl meets with the boy’s family to see if they can marry and, if so, they live together. A Roma boy can marry any girl, but a Roma girl can only marry a Roma boy. The bride receives a gold necklace with a gold coin from the groom’s family in recognition of the marriage, and everyone celebrates with a party where the family’s homegrown wine and food is served and music, singing and dancing abound. On the other hand, to divorce, the husband says one word three times and the couple is divorced. Our Romanian guide didn’t know that word.

Since Gypsy traditional dress is unavailable in “off-the-rack” stores, the Roma make their clothes.  Women wear many-layered dark-colored long skirts with many pockets.  Men usually wear all black — shirt, pants, and large-brimmed hat. Sometimes there is red or colored trim on the shirt or there is no hat. When it comes time to wash the clothes, male and female clothes cannot be washed together because clothes worn below the waist are considered unclean, especially the female’s. And to wash bad luck away, rural Roma wash clothes in a flowing river.

Many of the Roma people have jobs as skilled bricklayers, copper workers, and gold sifters. Some of the top musicians in Romania are Roma, like Gheorghe Zamfir. But many also have odd jobs, including begging, cleaning restrooms, fortune telling, and street sweeping.  Most Roma live below the poverty line and struggle daily to survive. They compete among each other, and the wealthier Roma do not associate with the poorer Roma. Still, they believe in getting along and being honest with each other. Their high rate of unemployment, welfare, illiteracy, and crime are some of Romania’s big problems.

The Roma have two designated seats in the Romanian Parliament.  The Roma also have their own government, consisting of a king who lives in France and an emperor who has no power. Elections are held every two years among the Roma. King Cioaba sets the rules and regulations the Roma follow. While I was visiting Romania, the newspaper pictured the emperor’s release from prison and his Zorroesque departure on a shiny black horse. The Romanian government then fined him.

In World War II, the Roma and other Romanians were sent to concentration camps. Communism was rough on the Roma, as their needs were ignored and they were not recognized as a separate ethnic group.

The Roma adopt the religion of their resident country since they have no ethnic religion. They honor the Black Madonna and have a small alter with the Black Madonna at the entrance of their dwelling. The Black Madonna is an image of Mary that has darkened through the centuries and is associated with miracles.

One encounter with a Roma came after we had visited a museum in Bucharest. A dark-skinned Roma lady dressed in colorful headscarf, shawl, dark multi-layered skirt, and bright blue blouse, awaited us at the exit. She granted us permission to photograph her up close. We took several different poses and gave her a tip. This was such a pleasant surprise because it is known that Roma do not allow personal photos.

As we were leaving Transylvania, we saw a man milking one of 20 cows in a roadside pasture. He had just walked up to that free-standing, unsecured cow that was eating grass and started milking it. In all of my years associated with the dairy business, I had never seen anything like this. What I didn’t know was whether the man owned the cows or just needed some milk.

Categories
Oceania Papua New Guinea

Birds of Paradise in Papua New Guinea

The first sighting I had of the T-U-F-I village on Cape Nelson from our Orion Expedition ship was the 4 letters spelling it out in rocks on the bank of the Solomon Sea. There were just rocks on the green grass and trees and the Solomon Sea. Then we started to see outrigger canoes coming towards us. An almost-naked native, with strategically-placed leaves and vines, greeted us and helped us into his canoe. We glided on a narrow 300-feet deep fjord lake covered by mangrove trees for about a quarter of a mile until he took us to the landing point. We were among the first tourists to Tufi on a expeditionary cruise by Tauck World Discovery. Two men covered in black paint with big red outlined eyes and spears in hand, ran up to us, screaming and shouting and motioning us to stop. This posturing continued for several minutes in an attempt to get us to leave their village because this was their ancient way of preventing enemies from harming their village and people. Finally, determined that we were safe, we were welcomed with a fresh-flower lei that had just been made for our visit to Tufi, Papua New Guinea. Wearing the most regal, glorious, and colorful primitive tribal decorations, the village chief greeted us, along with 30-40 of his villagers, also displaying their outstanding tribal village bilas finery. The natives showed us around their village.  And, dressed in their spectacular attire and tapa cloth skirts, they showed us how they take a sago palm tree, hollow it out, wash, shred and shape it into food. The men did the chopping and hollowing and the women did the cooking of the sago palm flakes over an open fire and shaped it into an oblong loaf for use later as flour or bread. It was wrapped only in leaves for storage. Then it was time for fresh pineapple, cut like a pinwheel, and displayed on a tray for us to enjoy. We all made sure we took a pineapple “flower” from the lovely lady with the sweet smiling face and adorned in the island’s ceremonial decorations. Native crafts were spread out on the ground for us to souvenir shop in Tufi, Papua New Guinea, a country just opened to tourism.  Yes, even souvenir shops are in countries that have only recently seen a white man. The villagers offered to sell their handmade items of bowls, plates, tapa cloths and necklaces made of bones, wood, shells, and rocks and anything else they could find in the jungle. And yes, I have a Papua New Guinea shell necklace to go with my African print blouse and tapa cloth for a skirt, and an inlaid wood plate for entertaining. As I shopped for the unusual souvenirs, I noticed one of the village women lying on the ground and another native lady working on her. She was tattooing the lady’s face, the highest fashion and sign of beauty one can have in Tufi. The tattoo was a zigzag pattern, and I then noticed several other women there had that tattoo pattern on their face and chest also. Before we left, the villagers performed a tribal dance for us and marched right by us, giving a great opportunity to see and to photograph each one. Beautiful headdresses made of Bird of Paradise feathers were worn by most of the natives and all wore their handmade tapa cloth skirts. Papua New Guinea is, undoubtedly, one of the world’s last wild and undiscovered places. And this rare experience will continue thanks to Tauck World Discovery, Robin Tauck, and Justin Friend with the ORION Expedition Cruise Ship. Tauck believes in giving back to the people and countries visited through sustainable tourism. Robin Tauck was among the first persons from the outside to visit Papua New Guinea and arrange for this expeditionary tour. On this tour, she brought the natives much needed medical, school and clothing supplies and she formed a relationship with the places visited, with the local culture, and the natural environment. Robin works together with the people who live there and partners to enhance and protect for the future. She certainly has built a relationship with Tufi, and the natives of Watam, Kitava, Bilbil, and Panapompom, Papua New Guinea, for I had never seen anything like this expedition before or since.

Photo Copy ©  2015 carolyntravels.com 

Categories
Africa Kenya Tanzania

Elephants, Cheetahs, Leopard, Monkeys, Rhinos, Hyenas, Hippos, and a Bird

When we were in Kenya-Tanzania in February, our Tauck World Discovery tour director, Deanne Inman,  gave us an airmail note-letter. With this, we were to write ourselves a letter about our safari we had just completed. Then she would mail it to us 3 weeks after we returned home and we were back into our normal daily hustle and bustle.

So, following is the letter I wrote.

1.   I remember going back to the hotel, the Fairmont Mara Safari Club, from the Tauck World Discovery Farewell Cocktail Party in the bush, and the only thing on the road  was 5 elephants.

2.   I remember having to check the back tire of our safari vehicle (I had to go to the WC behind the van because  no restrooms were nearby) in Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, and therefore, causing our van to have to separate from the other 2 Tauck safari vehicles. This made us a little late, causing only our safari vehicle occupants to see a rare cheetah.

3.   I remember eating Breakfast on a Picnic Table in Tarangire National Park in Tanzania while a Vervet monkey was in our locked safari vehicle with the roof open, having Breakfast from my tote bag. He joyously ate my only package of Fritos and

cookies.

4.   I remember Victoria Vance of Manhattan walking to her seat carrying her plate of food at our bush luncheon in Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. All of a sudden, a black-shouldered Kite (bird) swooped down from the tree above and stole her juicy steak from her plate. She hollered “He hit me, He took it,” and she didn’t even drop her plate.

5.   I remember in Samburu, Kenya, a Vervet Monkey stealing the English Bread that Blase had on his plate as he was eating Breakfast. That monkey was watching Blase from afar and then suddenly jumped through the open window behind Blase, jumped on the table, and stole his bread and took off, all in an instant.

6.   I remember a beautiful, gorgeous adult leopard resting in a tree, only to learn she was sitting on food she had caught earlier. And then the leopard got up, carried the food in its mouth and left the tree.

7.   I remember 4 hyenas eating the stinky carcass of and elephant or buffalo, in the Maasai Mara in Kenya, and seeing 3 other hyenas who had eaten or were ready to eat, waiting nearby. Also nearby were 2 male lions who probably were involved in the kill, lying nearby, and one had an injured eye.

8.   I remember watching a Herron eat a snake that was yellow on one side. The Herron played with the snake and then ate it, inch by inch. I was watching my first kill in the wild on an African Safari.

9.   I remember Tom, with his huge telephoto lens camera, and several others on the safari, clicking dozens of  photos per second, when a Top 5 animal appeared every time.

Tom also wrote a letter about his safari memories and they are:

1.   I remember the weather being perfect with no rain and everything green, green, and green except Samburu, Kenya which was desert-like.

2.   I remember the elephant in Tarangire National Park in Tanzania coming up to our safari vehicle and smelling us with her trunk.

3.   I remember the 6-7 year old male elephant in Samburu, Kenya, charging, threatening, stomping, and bluffing us in our safari vehicle, trying to get us to leave. And all the while, our safari driver telling us he was just a teenager learning how to be a big bull elephant one day.

4.   I remember in Samburu, Kenya, telling Carolyn to turn around and she said “Why”? And I said “Look”. She turned around, saw the Baboons right by her and screamed and jumped with surprise.

5.   I remember in the Serengeti, seeing 2 hippos in a pond, playing, biting, and fighting each other with their mouths open, showing all those huge teeth.

6.   I remember in Sweetwater, Kenya, being told by the armed Park Rangers to come and pet the White Rhino, Max.  I did right away but Carolyn was scared and, finally, we both had our photo made with him.

7.   I remember spotting the male white rhino on the way to the Tauck World Discovery Farewell Cocktail Party BEFORE our safari driver spotted it.

8.   I remember Carolyn getting a Surprise 25th Tauck Tour cake in Samburu, Kenya, complete with sparkler and the hotel waiters with instruments to accompany her 26th tour send off and many more.

9.   I remember that an African Safari in the wild is the No. 1 most awesome experience in the world and that I promise to be on another African Safari every 2 years with Tauck World Discovery.

Categories
Africa Tanzania

Bird Stealth Bomber Dive in Tanzania

In Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, our Tauck World Discovery tour group was having a picnic in a bush area of the crater.  We knew the lions, cheetahs, elephants, zebras, wildebeest, leopards and rhinos were all around us as we had just seen them.

The tables were set with beautiful red tablecloths, white china, silver ware and wine glasses.  A buffet was waiting and meats were being cooked on site so we each placed our custom order.

The chef placed the huge steak on Victoria Vance’s plate and she proceeded through the buffet line adding salads, fruits and vegetables.

That is when she was hit by the “stealth bomber”.  As she was walking to her seat with her plate of food, a black-shouldered kite, a hawk-like bird, instantly dive bombed down from the tree above and stole that steak right off her plate in a flash.

Victoria hollered, “He hit me, he took it!” and we all looked to see her standing there in shock holding her plate of food, minus her steak. We couldn’t believe she didn’t drop the plate of food and that she remained so calm after the robbery.  We all celebrated her stellar plate performance.

The chef offered Victoria another visit to the buffet, and cooked another huge, fresh steak for her.  This time Victoria made sure no other kite could repeat a dive bomb attack from the air by covering her food with a dinner napkin and hovering over her plate as she walked to her seat.

When all calmed down, we noticed the black-shouldered kite had dropped that stolen steak on the ground.  He didn’t have lunch after all, but we all had a priceless dive bomb experience in the bush on our Tauck World Discovery Kenya-Tanzania tour.

Categories
Asia India

Always ask for the Caparisoned Elephant in India

As I toured India, I saw caparisoned elephants (decorated)everywhere giving rides. In Udaipur, we stayed in the #1 ranked world hotel at that time, Oberoi Udavillas. and I ordered lunch and never received it. My friends arrived after I did, ordered, ate and said, “If you want to go shopping with us, we are leaving now.”

I left the table with my friends and the hostess said “Ma’am, please come back and eat your lunch.” I told her I had to go shopping now with my friends.. She begged me to come back and eat my lunch as we walked all the way to the car.  I assured her that I wasn’t upset. That night before I ate dinner at the same restaurant,  the manager offered me complimentary food and drink as a make good for not delivering my lunch, but my tour was all-inclusive with Tauck World Discovery. He said the waiter did not understand my order and that they had a meeting and it will never happen again. When my friends arrived for dinner with me, they said, “You should have requested a caparisoned elephant” as we had been discussing renting one so all the people on the tour could enjoy it, So I told the same waiter that I would like to have a caparisoned elephant as a makegood.        The next morning, while I was eating breakfast, the same waiter tapped my shoulder and said, “Ma’am, Ma’am, I have your elephant.” I looked at him in total disbelief and screamed “NO WAY.” He said, “Yes, Come now. But I am eating my breakfast, I said. “Come Now,” he begged and pulled/escorted me by the arm for one block to the hotel entrance. And, there was the caparisoned elephant, camels, horses and people, all of which were part of a special 25-member festival celebration for guests at the hotel that day. What a wish come true and a wonderful surprise from the #1 hotel.. After learning her name was Mary,  I went to the camel and told her she was the most beautiful camel I had ever seen all dressed up and blew her kisses. She responded by raising her head, opening her mouth and honking sounds of approval. And she kissed my cheek and her master’s cheek.  Then I went to the elephant, learned her name was Janie and told her she was the most beautiful decorated elephant I had ever seen and blew her kisses. And she raised her trunk high in the air and trumpted loud sounds of agreement. As I looked around, all the members of my Tauck tour had arrived at the festival celebration to enjoy the caparisoned  elephant, horses and camels with me. So remember, always ask for the caparisoned elephant as your wish just may come true.

Categories
Canada North America

Arctic Inuksuk & Polar Bear Jail

On a recent trip to the Canadian Arctic tundra to see polar bears, my Tauck World Discovery tour took me to Churchill, Manitoba, on Hudson Bay to see an Inuksuk.

I had never heard of an inuksuk and thought that it looked like a stack-of-rocks traffic cop giving directions. Then I learned that the Inuit people have been building these rock stacks since ancient times to act in the place of messengers, sometimes to indicate a good hunting or fishing place, a spot where surplus food is stored, the way to a certain place or a trail across the tundra.

While observing that 15-foot-high inuksuk on Hudson Bay, I wondered if it was pointing the way to a polar bear. I turned my head and saw our first polar bear from the comfort of our warm tundra vehicle, a converted school bus. This 850-pound bear got down on the ice and rolled like an acrobat, ending up on its back with all four feet up.

That bear, then, just got up and continued walking to an area with small bushes to lie down with his back to the fierce-blowing wind and snow like nothing awesome had just happened.

Every now and then, the polar bear gets to wait out the wind and snowstorm in the comfort of the polar bear jail in Churchill. The town has a law that polar bears cannot come within five miles. Fourteen bears had violated that law when we were visiting and were in jail. Some were repeat offenders, as they continued to come to town looking for food and interrupting people’s way of life. They eat in jail and when the jail is full, they are taken back into the tundra to give others a priceless experience.